Retinol is a topical treatment highly regarded for its ability to prevent and reverse some signs of aging, especially wrinkles and fine lines, roughness, and hyperpigmentation. This over-the-counter vitamin A formulation also works to prevent the clogged pores that contribute to acne and can even reduce the signs of acne scars. (Retinoids refer to both drugstore retinol products as well as products available by prescription from a dermatologist.)
What Is Retinol and How Does It Work?
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that’s essential for human health. In addition to supporting vision, immune function, and reproductive development, it maintains our skin, and when used topically, it’s been shown to increase the production of skin cells, collagen, and elastin; exfoliate; and prevent clogged pores.
The best way to unclog pores is through exfoliation. When retinol is applied to the skin, it starts a chemical exfoliation process that increases cell turnover. This makes the dead skin fall off, clearing out pores while also preventing excess skin cells from building up again.
Retinol’s ability to increase skin cell turnover also creates healthier-looking skin in another way: By encouraging the production of fresh skin cells, fine lines and wrinkles are diminished. The result is skin that’s both clearer and more youthful.
How to Apply Retinol for Best Results
Because retinol is very effective, it’s tempting to use a lot of it every day. But start slowly. Vitamin A can cause redness, dryness, irritation, burning, and increased sensitivity to the sun, and initially it may lead to an increase in pimples. To avoid this, begin by slowly introducing it into your bedtime skincare routine. Wash and dry your face, then apply a pea-sized amount once a week until there are no signs of irritation. Once your skin has acclimated, increase usage to every other night and then to every night, and be sure to use sunscreen.
Can Retinol Get Rid of Pimples Fast?
While retinol does work well, it can take weeks or even months to see improvement. Many people will experience a flare-up of their acne when they start using it because the increased cell turnover brings pimples to the surface. It’s important to be patient and stick with the treatment plan.
Retinol vs. Other Topical Retinoids
Both retinol and retinoids increase skin cell turnover and unclog pores, but retinoids are more potent and frequently more effective. The difference between the retinol products available over-the-counter and prescription retinol products lies in their molecular structure. Retinols require two steps to convert to the retinoic acid that improves the skin, while retinoids require just one step. This increased strength also brings a greater risk of side effects, including redness, irritation, and dryness.
Choosing the right retinoid product for your skin type requires evaluation of your skin’s condition, your age, and whether you’re using it to treat acne, as an anti-aging product, or both. If your skin is dry or sensitive, you may want to start with a non-prescription retinol that’s likely to be less irritating.
Managing Side Effects and Sensitivity
Retinol creates a significant change in the way your skin behaves, affecting both the skin’s top layer and its deeper layer. Dead skin cells slough off, exposing the new skin cells being generated. This new skin is tender and vulnerable. When exposed to sun, air, makeup, and other irritants, it can become red and flaky. Some people experience a stinging sensation, and the new skin is especially vulnerable to sunburn.
The irritation and redness that can come when your skin is getting used to retinol can be minimized in several ways. Skipping makeup for a few days can help, and so can using mild skin cleansers without any exfoliants. Rinse your skin with cool water, and use cold compresses or aloe vera gel if you experience a burning sensation. Flaking and dryness are best addressed with the use of a gentle moisturizer that rehydrates the skin.
Retinol and Acne Scars
Acne injures the skin. Retinol can minimize the scars and spots left behind by skin irritation, picking, and popping pimples, though it may not be effective in treating deep scars.
Can Retinol Help Fade Acne Marks?
Because retinol increases cell turnover and generates new skin cells and collagen, it reduces hyperpigmentation, evens out skin tone, and has a smoothing effect that helps make acne marks and scars less noticeable.
Treating Fine Lines, Wrinkles, and Scarring Simultaneously
In addition to stimulating skin cell turnover and improving the tone of the skin, retinol increases the production of collagen. Collagen makes connective tissue and provides structure and support to the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and scars at the same time. It evens out the skin texture and tone, improving the overall appearance of the skin.
Common Questions About Retinol and Acne
Retinol is most commonly known for its anti-aging benefits, and people with acne have many questions about how a treatment known for minimizing wrinkles can also help prevent acne.
How Long Does It Take for Retinol to Clear Acne?
Having acne is frustrating, and it’s natural to hope for quick results. Retinol’s effectiveness lies in the structural changes it makes to the skin, and that process takes time. Most patients see an improvement in acne outbreaks after three to six months of nightly use, while those seeking improvement of acne scars can see improvements after two months of nightly use.
Can You Use Retinol on Active Acne?
Retinol can be used to treat active breakouts and pimples, but it will not have the same immediate effect of a treatment like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. In fact, it may temporarily make the outbreak worse as it purges dead skin cells.
Tips for Building a Skincare Routine with Retinol
Because retinol can be irritating, start by applying a small amount of high-quality, over-the-counter retinol cream to a small area of skin to make sure that you don’t have a negative reaction. If you don’t get extremely red or itchy, or experience a painful burning sensation, begin adding retinol to your skincare routine.
Washing Your Face and Applying Retinol at Night
Retinol should be used at night, when your body works to repair itself and your skin is more permeable to its ingredients. Start off using it once a week, and once redness and flaking decrease, increase to every other night, and then nightly. Clean your skin with a gentle cleanser with no exfoliant properties, then pat it dry and apply a pea-sized dose in a thin layer to skin. Wait a few minutes, then apply a light moisturizer that’s noncomedogenic (meaning it won’t clog your pores.)
Pairing Retinol with Moisturizers and Sunscreen
Retinol breaks down in sunlight and makes your skin more sensitive to UV rays, so it’s best used at night. If you do apply it during the day, make sure to apply sunscreen after your moisturizer and stay in the shade as much as possible or wear sun-protective clothing and a hat.
Working with a Piction Dermatologist
Piction Health offers expert dermatology care, without the wait. We believe in putting patients first and provide immediate, high-quality virtual access to a dermatologist so you can start your journey to healthier skin right away.
